The Last Surviving Mayans
The Chicleros are the men who harvest gum from the chicle trees in the jungle. It used to be the basis for all chewing gum, hence the name Chiclets. When we got to where they worked, we had no idea how they survived. In addition to the voracious mosquitoes, the isolation, the heat, and the indescribable humidity, the work was backbreaking. I knew I would never be able to chew a piece of gum again without thinking of them.
Their camp was as basic as one could imagine. One wooden building contained a cooking area, a long row of cots, and an “office.” The ham radio in the office was the only means of communication. A doctor flew in on his little plane every two weeks to check on sick people and sick mules. They had two extra cots and Jean and I stayed with them for a few days before starting out to find the Lacandon Indians. It was a pretty rough crowd, the kind of men who left home because maybe they had to, but they couldn’t have been nicer to us. One night dangling my bare feet over the edge of my bed, I felt something run over them and jumped up. A huge hairy black spider—and when these men started screaming “muy malo, muy malo” and were afraid to go near it, I never went barefoot again.
The jungle is not like the desert. It is not something you need to experience firsthand. Look at photographs of orchids and spectacular birds. Read about the trees. Watch movies about other people’s trips. If you’re actually there, you are being eaten alive so relentlessly you can’t enjoy anything.